Dan
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http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Rumba4.jpg
There are four available easy connections for the digital switches on Y+/- and Z+/- in the north-west corner of the board. Immediately “south” are the T0-T3 and TH1-TH2 pins, which are normally used to read temperature sensors. Those temp sensors are often analog, so those pins are probably where I’d start.
Hi!
I’ve had a look at the code. I’m immediately put off by the naming of major variable “l”, which looks exactly the same as the number “1” in most system fonts. But let’s put that aside.
1.5875mm (1/16″ is pretty small. If you are not missing steps and the math is good then there’s some extra variable for which you have failed to account. Does the position of the tool head change the contact point of the chain on the sprocket? Remember it’s not an actual point as it is probably treated in the math.
I also found that making flexible arms https://youtu.be/FJe5MkoUVIA?t=155 increased the precision as the line from the sproket to the tool stayed the length I expected. I didn’t have to account for the relative difference between the tool position and the chain mounting points on the anti-vibration disc. It also simplified our math.
Speaking of which, we used basic trigonometry and KISS: https://github.com/MarginallyClever/Makelangelo-firmware/blob/master/makelangeloFirmwareRumba/makelangeloFirmwareRumba.ino#L150
I don’t account for the sprocket size because our drawings are small enough that it doesn’t matter.Does your machine auto-home? Are you certain you’re starting at the right position? A tiny error in homing can lead to egg-shaped or bowed results. That’s why the Makelangelo 5 has homing switches and gets great results every time.
Top center has the most tension on the chains. Is it bending the support arms that hold the motors?
I can relate to the entrepreneurial spirit of the Maslow team. I would never put a cutting head on a polargraph like this. I’ve seen to many accidents with polargraphs and routers to combine the two. I picture the router vibration shaking a critical screw loose, one chain detaching, and now you have a swinging router of death. OSHA field day. What I’m trying to say is please please please be safe, make sure your liability is air tight, and have a plan how to react when John & Suzy chair maker post their disaster story. Nobody wants a Streisand Effect, right?
@CL – adafruit driver board has ser1 and ser2. Code says
#define SERVO_PIN SERVO_PIN1
so that’s should be your answer.
Good! I like people who keep things simple.
It’s good to be cautious. If you know the wire gauge going into the JST and the power transmitted, maybe you don’t need to solder at all? I don’t really follow your description. Maybe a drawing of what you want to do…
I can say that soldering to the first pins are tricky, we asked the supplier to put the leads on for us and paid a bit extra to avoid the headache.
Hi Kirk!
I’ve packaged the belts and the servo horn so it can ship right away. Your shipping address has not changed, correct?
There’s supposed to be a screw that nails the horn onto the servo. I’ve included one.
The parts list in the video is the *entire* list of parts, including every nut, bolt, zip tie, etc.
Thank you for pointing out it’s in the video, I’ve made a note to update the video and the packaging.step_count is the position on a given axis, in motor steps. for the third axis (servo) it’s the angle. So if your up angle is 90 and your down angle is 50, you can check those two values and change the light at that time.
The firmware does not currently care what angle you ask for. By that I mean it doesn’t know that 90 means up and 50 means down. You tell it to go and it sends the command to the servo and it’s job is done.
I recall that every strip was replaceable without soldering (not permanently affix to each other). There must have been a connector of some kind. Probably 3 pin JST ?
We asked ourselves the amperage-per-wire question when designing the wall, because we worried it would melt the casing and start a fire.
I haven’t worked with them yet. Lately I’ve been using SK6812. Do you have a datasheet for the ws2813? I haven’t found one yet.
Great questions!
They look the same to me. Every odd numbered strip has a strip has a plug to go to a power connector, and the even numbered strips arrived with wires that go to nothing (and were ignored).
There are 8 wires in CAT5. AWG24 is rated 3.5A for “Chassis wiring”, which is for shorter leads. We use one pair of wires for each pair of strips so each half of a pair is carrying ~1.8A, a very safe amount. They weren’t even warm to the touch.
I hope to see video when you get it up and running – especially if you use the processing sketch to play a video off your laptop in real time.
Please describe the steps more clearly. I will try to copy your moves and see if the problem happens here. if it does happen here then I can work on a fix for everyone.
When you connected was there any text in the log window at the bottom, or in log.html? If yes, what did it say?
I appreciate it. Thanks!
I suspect the first point of failure will be the home limit switches.
NO U
well… you could try this:
https://www.tindie.com/products/i-make-robots/sir-rampsalot/
I have a bunch in stock right now.
You are not a fool! I have failed to make it more clear from the get-go.
If you have an idea how to make it more clear, please let me know.you know Murphy’s Law, how you find the answer a second after you ask for help?
I’ve learned to suck it up and ask for help a lot, it feels a little embarrassing but it saves time 🙂 Abusing Murphy’s law for profit!RAMPS and RUMBA can move many times faster and boards can be recycled later to make 3D printer. L293D shield isn’t good for much else.
@curt locey I’m not familiar with zyltech driver. link to specific item? photo of your setup?
Cool! Path generation for SPs is still a big challenge. I like your joystick solution, similar to
The new SP I made is good,
but it’s weaker than we’d planned. I need a version with 10:1 gearboxes so I can move 500N, which will counter both gravity and the human sitting on top.
@harm it turns out my issues was simple – my usb cable was bad. I have the latest OSX and no problem connecting. Talking to people from Processing, Arduino, and JSSC (the library for connecting JAVA to serial ports) all have no problem. The issue is on your end.
I wish I could hibernate! Everything takes too long when I work alone.
@clocey
download and unzip the Makelangelo.zip from here: https://www.marginallyclever.com/product/makelangelo-software/
Double click the JAR file.In some rare cases you may need to double click the “start windows” or “start osx” file.
I am now able to reproduce the problem – a forced update to OSX now means I can’t see any serial ports from makelangelo software. I’m currently pinging every contact I have to find other developers with this issue and how they are dealing with it. More news as soon as I have it.
Unfortunately you’ve used a continuous servo, which is not the same thing as a 180 servo.
rotary stewart platform 2 code only works with stepper motors and the RUMBA control board. it will not work for an UNO and digital servos.
Robot Overlord stewart platform must first connect to a live robot, then “find home”, then other buttons will be active.
The AMS2 sheild has dedicated power terminal blocks. you will probably need 12v4a for each shield.
If I remember correctly the AMS2 cannot do more than 1.5a for each stepper? So you might cook the board.
To connect normal power supplies to a board I use https://www.marginallyclever.com/product/55×21-female-power-plug/The speed can be adjusted with gcode commands.
G0 X1 F50
means “go absolute X+1cm from the home position at a speed of 50.”
G0 X0 F100
would then return to the origin at twice the speed.
the commands can be written to a file and repeated as many times as you like.
I have not heard of anyone attempting to mount it sideways. I wouldn’t recommend it.
It’s an inspiring idea. I’d have to tweak the design to make that possible.Super cool! http://MarginallyClever.com would be plenty, thanks. I’d love to know more about your build challenges and how open source helped your project.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_6_Electronics
http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Gen_6_pins.pnglooks like a picture of the pins available on the gen6. Properly copied to the firmware you should be able to add a MOTHERBOARD_GEN6 with your board-specific settings. I don’t have a gen6 with which to test, but if you send a pull request once you’ve tested your change we’ll make sure the settings stay in future versions (updates from us won’t stomp on your additions)
