Open source hexapod crab robot simulator
I’ve updated my crab robot simulator (with all it’s movement styles and hexapod kinematics) to run on much of the same code as the other Marginally Clever projects Learn more, get the demo
I’ve updated my crab robot simulator (with all it’s movement styles and hexapod kinematics) to run on much of the same code as the other Marginally Clever projects Learn more, get the demo
MECH-0072 Prusa Heated bed MK2 comes fully assembled with LEDs that warn you if the bed is heating and excellent thermal conductivity for fast, even heating.
My favorite feature is the mounting hole in the top center. Once you’ve mounted the bottom two holes and calibrated so the X axis is level, a single screw in the top center can be twisted to adjust your Y axis for a quickly calibrated, flat print bed. So much easier than the earlier versions with four spring loaded screws on each corner.
This bed is 8″x8″ (~203mm). For best results, put a piece of glass on top that has a sheet of BuildTak, held in place with some alligator paper clips. That will distribute the heat more evenly and make sure your first layer stays right where it belongs.
ELEC-0054 RAMPS 1.4 electronics package has all the core electronics for your next 3D printer, plus some useful extras.
The Arduino board is the brain. It listens to instructions written in Gcode. The RAMPS board stacks on top of the Arduino board like layers in a sandwich and gives the Arduino the ability to move up to 6 stepper motors at once.
On top of the RAMPS board are sandwiched five motor drivers – these are the high voltage chips that do the heavy lifting. They’re made to be replaceable, tweakable, and upgrade-able. Because so much current is running through them they can get hot so they come with heatsinks and special tape to help keep them cool. Heatsinks work even better when there’s a breeze so we’ve added a 12v fan that plugs into the RAMPS board. To make your assembly as easy as possible we’ve even included a small screwdriver.
If that wasn’t enough, we’ve got an optional micro SD card reader in the kit so you can run your machine untethered, a temperature sensor for your next 3D printer, and a triple set of pulleys for GT2 timing belt to move your machine.
PS: If you don’t need all of those things? Let us know, we’ll save you some money.
MECH-0073 BuilTak print bed surface is a sticker that goes on the bed of your 3D printer and holds your print like it was nailed down.
I bought my first sheet on a whim at the 2014 Bay Area Maker Faire. It was my only purchase I made that weekend and after I tried it I loved it so much I had to get more for my other machines. Which is where you win, coz now I have lots to share.
As you can see in the picture above, I clean my glass and put it on a towel so it wouldn’t slide away. I peel the back off one corner, smooth it down with a credit card, check everything is square, finish smoothing, and then recalibrate my Z axis. They say in the instructions that you don’t need to “mush” your first layer to get a good stick and they’re not kidding – I mushed my first print and it took ten minutes to separate it from the bed!
It doesn’t tears like Kapton and it doesn’t make a mess like ABS mud. Each sticker is 8″x8″ (~203mm) and ~0.1mm thick with a rough black surface. Works with ABS, PLA, PET, and many other filament materials.
KIT-0005 3D printer nozzle is based on a design by Joseph Prusa. It has excellent heat dissipation and comes with an aluminum mounting plate, heater cartridge, temperature sensor, and more. The wiring already crimped, too!